Rome and Istanbul are connected by a common ancient history in the time of Constantine. However, the two capitals of the Roman Empire have since developed in very different ways.
Rome is a city based on its ancient past. Other than Mussolini’s building projects and the new housing of the Ara Pacis, Romans don’t build new buildings. They restore old ones to their original glory but nothing new goes up. The city is built on the foundations of ancient times so that the past literally supports the city today. Tourists come to Rome to see the Forum, the Colosseum, the Pantheon, and more. They see the monuments that have been standing for over a thousand years and the city of Rome has worked to preserve them so they’re all in incredible condition. The Roman Forum stretches farther than the eye can see and really gives you a sense of what is was like to live in Rome in ancient times.
Istanbul, in contrast, is a modern city. They had the same ancient past with similar monuments yet all that remains standing of the once-great Forum of Theodosius are a few fragmented columns on the side of a modern tramway. Istanbul plowed over its history to move into modern-day.
Art and identity are unavoidably linked in both contexts. Italy doesn’t have an “identity” in the modern world. People think Italy and think the Colosseum. They think Augustus and Caesar. Italy’s only identity is its ancient history. Rome is a gorgeous city, but it’s not dynamic. It’s not constantly changing. It’s at a standstill with its roots in the past.
Istanbul doesn’t have those associations. The Theodosian Forum is certainly not the first thing I think of when I hear “Istanbul”. Istanbul is truly a thriving city. With about 7 times the population of Rome, the city feels more urban and metropolitan. There are real roads other than cobblestone alleyways and it feels completely intact with the modernization of the rest of the world. Rome, instead, feels left behind.
Is it bad to live in the past? I think the Pantheon is the most fantastic thing in Rome and it’s been there for nearly 2000 years. Yet, I appreciate Istanbul’s modernity because it makes me feel so much more at home. Life in Rome seems so inextricably tied with the past that it moves so slowly, reluctantly trudging forward in time. Istanbul is jumping ahead with both feet but sacrifices its antiquity and ancient connections so that the Theodosian forum is a bit of a joke, just marble garbage with cars whizzing by.
The cities have a common connection yet completely different feels, exemplified perfectly by the ancient forums. Is there a balance between past and present? Is there a way to cultivate ancient importance while maintaining a strong identity in the present? If there is a balance between the two, it’s certainly not found in Rome or Istanbul at opposite ends of the spectrum.